FLESH
Base color or roskrish: Sankir
Dark lines for pupil and iris of eyes, upper eyelids, and eyebrows: Black
Dark lines for other flesh areas: Burnt umber
First highlight: Salmon pink highlight mix; approximately equal parts white,
yellow (or gold) ochre, and earth orange (or other red)
First float: Dark ochre
Second highlight: Same as first highlight, but with slightly less earth orange
Second float: Green ochre and/or gold ochre
Third highlight: Same as second highlight, but with even less earth orange
Third float: Gold ochre
Re-drawing of lines for pupil and iris of eyes, upper eyelids, and eyebrows:
Black
Re-drawing of lines for other flesh areas: Dark red mix
Ozhivki: White + dark Indian yellow
Base color or roskrish: Sankir
Dark lines for pupil and iris of eyes, upper eyelids, and eyebrows: Black
Dark lines for other flesh areas: Burnt umber
First highlight: Salmon pink highlight mix; approximately equal parts white,
yellow (or gold) ochre, and earth orange (or other red)
First float: Dark ochre
Second highlight: Same as first highlight, but with slightly less earth orange
Second float: Green ochre and/or gold ochre
Third highlight: Same as second highlight, but with even less earth orange
Third float: Gold ochre
Re-drawing of lines for pupil and iris of eyes, upper eyelids, and eyebrows:
Black
Re-drawing of lines for other flesh areas: Dark red mix
Ozhivki: White + dark Indian yellow
Betsy Porter
Art and Iconography
COLOR RECIPES FOR EGG TEMPERA ICONS
Art and Iconography
COLOR RECIPES FOR EGG TEMPERA ICONS
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PIGMENT GUIDE AND RECIPES
Every artist has personal preferences in colors and in visual effects. Those
listed below are my own favorites, which continue to evolve from recipes I have
received from workshops of the Prosopon School and from other sources.
This method gives you very precise control over your colors, because a color
can always be adjusted, even late in the process, by adding another float.
If a recipe doesn’t work for you, feel free to adjust it to your liking. As you gain
experience in egg tempera painting, you will discover your own favorite
pigments and color mixes.
Every artist has personal preferences in colors and in visual effects. Those
listed below are my own favorites, which continue to evolve from recipes I have
received from workshops of the Prosopon School and from other sources.
This method gives you very precise control over your colors, because a color
can always be adjusted, even late in the process, by adding another float.
If a recipe doesn’t work for you, feel free to adjust it to your liking. As you gain
experience in egg tempera painting, you will discover your own favorite
pigments and color mixes.
SOME GENERAL PRINCIPLES
The base color, or roskrish, is dark and earthy, and may contain some gritty
pigment for texture and character. Visually, it forms the darkest shadows for each color. The sankir (base color for
flesh and hair) should be reasonably opaque. Other roskrish colors should be somewhat diluted for a gently
mottled effect, and the white of the board should show through slightly.
Colors for lines should be dark enough to show easily against the base color. Do not dilute them.
Colors for the first, second, and third highlights contain a good deal of white, and must be light enough to
show against the base color. They are usually (but not necessarily) a pastel version of their base color. Highlights
must be bright enough to retain their visual impact through the overlying floats.
Colors for the first, second, and third floats are increasingly bright and pure, and most do not contain any
white. They are usually brighter versions of the base color. After mixing and checking the color, dilute it with water
for a light transparent wash. Apply with a fairly wet brush, working in little circles - no long brush strokes.
Colors for final lines, details, and highlights or ozhivki (ojivki) are bright and pure, and usually there is no
reason to dilute them.
The base color, or roskrish, is dark and earthy, and may contain some gritty
pigment for texture and character. Visually, it forms the darkest shadows for each color. The sankir (base color for
flesh and hair) should be reasonably opaque. Other roskrish colors should be somewhat diluted for a gently
mottled effect, and the white of the board should show through slightly.
Colors for lines should be dark enough to show easily against the base color. Do not dilute them.
Colors for the first, second, and third highlights contain a good deal of white, and must be light enough to
show against the base color. They are usually (but not necessarily) a pastel version of their base color. Highlights
must be bright enough to retain their visual impact through the overlying floats.
Colors for the first, second, and third floats are increasingly bright and pure, and most do not contain any
white. They are usually brighter versions of the base color. After mixing and checking the color, dilute it with water
for a light transparent wash. Apply with a fairly wet brush, working in little circles - no long brush strokes.
Colors for final lines, details, and highlights or ozhivki (ojivki) are bright and pure, and usually there is no
reason to dilute them.
MIXING EGG TEMPERA PAINT
Mix paint in white porcelain or plastic watercolor palette. Use a tiny spoon or small pointed palette knife to transfer
a small amount of dry pigment to your palette.
Using an eye dropper, add egg liquid (juice of one egg yolk + 2 tablespoons dry white wine; or juice of one egg
yolk + 1/3 teaspoon white vinegar + 2 tablespoons distilled water) to cup and stir with brush. Add enough to
moisten the pigment and make a paste; then a few more drops. Test color on white paper, and adjust if necessary.
Use paint full strength for sankir at flesh and hair. Dilute other roskrish colors with distilled water, about two parts
paint to one part water. Test on white paper; some colors may look better if diluted half and half.
To blend paint at highlights on flesh and garments, make 3 mixtures of increasing strength, as follows. When you
mix a highlight color, put 5 drops of water + 2 drops of egg base into each of 2 cups adjacent to your cup of
full-strength paint. Mix some color into one of these adjacent cups, for a dilute highlight color. Soften edges of
full-strength highlights with dilute paint, and edges of dilute paint with pure egg-and-water mix.
Use full-strength highlight mix for hair, wings, and gold trim.
Mix floats very thin; and test on paper. Better 2 or 3 light floats than one heavy float.
Use paint full strength for dark lines, lettering, narrow borders, details, etc.
Mix paint in white porcelain or plastic watercolor palette. Use a tiny spoon or small pointed palette knife to transfer
a small amount of dry pigment to your palette.
Using an eye dropper, add egg liquid (juice of one egg yolk + 2 tablespoons dry white wine; or juice of one egg
yolk + 1/3 teaspoon white vinegar + 2 tablespoons distilled water) to cup and stir with brush. Add enough to
moisten the pigment and make a paste; then a few more drops. Test color on white paper, and adjust if necessary.
Use paint full strength for sankir at flesh and hair. Dilute other roskrish colors with distilled water, about two parts
paint to one part water. Test on white paper; some colors may look better if diluted half and half.
To blend paint at highlights on flesh and garments, make 3 mixtures of increasing strength, as follows. When you
mix a highlight color, put 5 drops of water + 2 drops of egg base into each of 2 cups adjacent to your cup of
full-strength paint. Mix some color into one of these adjacent cups, for a dilute highlight color. Soften edges of
full-strength highlights with dilute paint, and edges of dilute paint with pure egg-and-water mix.
Use full-strength highlight mix for hair, wings, and gold trim.
Mix floats very thin; and test on paper. Better 2 or 3 light floats than one heavy float.
Use paint full strength for dark lines, lettering, narrow borders, details, etc.
USEFUL BASIC COLOR MIXES
Bright red or halo red, first color applied, for a line around the gilded halo: One part vermillion, one part earth
orange, one part Venetian red.
Sankir is the base color for flesh and hair; typically a dark olive drab, suitable for shadows on the olive skin tone
of Biblical persons and others from the Mediterranean area. Mix 2 parts gold ochre, one part terra verte, one part
burnt umber, 1/4 to 1/2 part bright red or earth orange.
For saints with other skin colors, sankir color may vary, ranging from near-black for a very dark-skinned saint, to
deep olive tan for very light-skinned saint. Mix it a shade or two darker than the shadows on the skin.
Olive green mix: One to 2 parts gold ochre, one part terra verte, optionally 1/2 part orange ochre.
Black lines mix: One part burnt umber and one part blue-black shungite. (Black pigment is OK but hard to
dissolve.)
Dark red lines mix: One part Venetian red, one part red ochre, plus burnt umber or hematite to taste. Mix it dark
enough to show against base color.
Salmon pink highlight mix: Approximately equal parts white, yellow (or gold) ochre, and earth orange (or if you
prefer, another red such as vermilion, red ochre, bright red mix, venetian red). Use this mix for highlighting flesh
and hair - bright dark pink for the first highlight, more white and yellow for second and third highlight. The same
recipe may optionally be used for highlighting brown, red, and red-violet garments. Use more white if needed for
this highlight color to show up well on garments.
Ozhivki (ojivki) or Final Highlights: White with dark Indian yellow for flesh, hair, angel wings, gold trim and gold
garments. White with lapis (azurite) for red, green, blue, and violet garments.
Bright red or halo red, first color applied, for a line around the gilded halo: One part vermillion, one part earth
orange, one part Venetian red.
Sankir is the base color for flesh and hair; typically a dark olive drab, suitable for shadows on the olive skin tone
of Biblical persons and others from the Mediterranean area. Mix 2 parts gold ochre, one part terra verte, one part
burnt umber, 1/4 to 1/2 part bright red or earth orange.
For saints with other skin colors, sankir color may vary, ranging from near-black for a very dark-skinned saint, to
deep olive tan for very light-skinned saint. Mix it a shade or two darker than the shadows on the skin.
Olive green mix: One to 2 parts gold ochre, one part terra verte, optionally 1/2 part orange ochre.
Black lines mix: One part burnt umber and one part blue-black shungite. (Black pigment is OK but hard to
dissolve.)
Dark red lines mix: One part Venetian red, one part red ochre, plus burnt umber or hematite to taste. Mix it dark
enough to show against base color.
Salmon pink highlight mix: Approximately equal parts white, yellow (or gold) ochre, and earth orange (or if you
prefer, another red such as vermilion, red ochre, bright red mix, venetian red). Use this mix for highlighting flesh
and hair - bright dark pink for the first highlight, more white and yellow for second and third highlight. The same
recipe may optionally be used for highlighting brown, red, and red-violet garments. Use more white if needed for
this highlight color to show up well on garments.
Ozhivki (ojivki) or Final Highlights: White with dark Indian yellow for flesh, hair, angel wings, gold trim and gold
garments. White with lapis (azurite) for red, green, blue, and violet garments.
BACKGROUND; USUALLY LIGHT GOLD
Base color or roskrish: Pale ochre, white, cream
Succeeding floats: Pale ochre, white, gold ochre
Add terra verte for greener background
Add orange ochre for oranger background
Add dark ochre or brown ochre for darker, more subdued effect
Base color or roskrish: Pale ochre, white, cream
Succeeding floats: Pale ochre, white, gold ochre
Add terra verte for greener background
Add orange ochre for oranger background
Add dark ochre or brown ochre for darker, more subdued effect
DARK BROWN OR MONASTIC GARMENT
Base color or roskrish: Same as red-violet garment
Dark lines: Black
First highlight: White + olive green
First float: Burnt umber
Second highlight: White + any red; or same as flesh
Second float: Light hematite or burnt siena
Third highlight: Any pastel green or blue
Third float: Burnt siena
Re-drawing of lines: Black
Ozhivki: White tinted to your taste
Base color or roskrish: Same as red-violet garment
Dark lines: Black
First highlight: White + olive green
First float: Burnt umber
Second highlight: White + any red; or same as flesh
Second float: Light hematite or burnt siena
Third highlight: Any pastel green or blue
Third float: Burnt siena
Re-drawing of lines: Black
Ozhivki: White tinted to your taste
WHITE GARMENT OR NAPKIN
Base color or roskrish: White + dark hematite or burnt umber
Dark lines: Green ochre
First highlight: White + gold ochre
First float: White + vermillion
Second highlight: White + gold ochre & bright Indian yellow
Second float: White
Third highlight: White or pastel of your choice
Optional highlights and shadows: Pastel shades to taste
Re-drawing of lines: Olive green + white
Ozhivki: White, or white + lapis (lazurite)
Base color or roskrish: White + dark hematite or burnt umber
Dark lines: Green ochre
First highlight: White + gold ochre
First float: White + vermillion
Second highlight: White + gold ochre & bright Indian yellow
Second float: White
Third highlight: White or pastel of your choice
Optional highlights and shadows: Pastel shades to taste
Re-drawing of lines: Olive green + white
Ozhivki: White, or white + lapis (lazurite)
LIGHT BLUE; ANGEL’S HAIR BAND AND
INNER WINGS
Base color or roskrish: Dark hematite + white
First highlight: White + gold ochre
First float: White + vermillion
Second highlight: White + dark Indian yellow
Second float: White + lapis (azurite)
Re-drawing of lines: Olive green + white
Ozhivki: White
INNER WINGS
Base color or roskrish: Dark hematite + white
First highlight: White + gold ochre
First float: White + vermillion
Second highlight: White + dark Indian yellow
Second float: White + lapis (azurite)
Re-drawing of lines: Olive green + white
Ozhivki: White
YELLOW OR GOLDEN GARMENT; GOLDEN
TRIM; GOLDEN-BROWN ANGEL WINGS
Base color or roskrish: Brown ochre, yellow ochre, earth orange
Darker roskrish for angel’s outer wings: Add a bit of burnt umber
Dark lines: Dark red
First highlight: White + gold ochre
First float: Orange ochre
Second highlight: White + gold ochre & dark Indian yellow
Second float: Yellow ochre
Third highlight: White + gold ochre & bright yellow
Third float: Gold ochre (same as flesh)
Re-drawing of lines: Dark red
Ozhivki: White + dark Indian yellow
TRIM; GOLDEN-BROWN ANGEL WINGS
Base color or roskrish: Brown ochre, yellow ochre, earth orange
Darker roskrish for angel’s outer wings: Add a bit of burnt umber
Dark lines: Dark red
First highlight: White + gold ochre
First float: Orange ochre
Second highlight: White + gold ochre & dark Indian yellow
Second float: Yellow ochre
Third highlight: White + gold ochre & bright yellow
Third float: Gold ochre (same as flesh)
Re-drawing of lines: Dark red
Ozhivki: White + dark Indian yellow
BLUE OR GREEN GARMENT
Base color or roskrish: Terra verte, brown ochre, idanthren blue
Optional texture pigment: Vivianite or maya blue
Dark lines: Black
First highlight: White + olive green
First float: Terra verte + dark Indian yellow
Second highlight: White + terra verte
Second float: Terra verte + idanthren blue
Optional indigo blue or other blue
Third highlight: White + olive green & dark Indian yellow
Third float: Lapis (azurite), or other blue or green
Re-drawing of lines: Black
Ozhivki: White + lapis (lazurite)
Base color or roskrish: Terra verte, brown ochre, idanthren blue
Optional texture pigment: Vivianite or maya blue
Dark lines: Black
First highlight: White + olive green
First float: Terra verte + dark Indian yellow
Second highlight: White + terra verte
Second float: Terra verte + idanthren blue
Optional indigo blue or other blue
Third highlight: White + olive green & dark Indian yellow
Third float: Lapis (azurite), or other blue or green
Re-drawing of lines: Black
Ozhivki: White + lapis (lazurite)
DARK RED-VIOLET GARMENT
Base color or roskrish: Iron oxide, dark hematite, burnt umber
For a darker tone, add a bit of idanthren blue or blue-black shungite
Dark lines: Black
First highlight: White + dark hematite; or same as flesh
First float: Light hematite + burnt umber
Mix extra, let pigment sink to the bottom, use only the top layer.
Second highlight: White + light hematite; or same as flesh
Second float: Light hematite or burnt siena
Third highlight: Same as flesh
Third float: Burnt siena
Re-drawing of lines: Dark hematite, burnt umber, or black
Ozhivki: White tinted to your taste
Optional: Illuminate shadows with lines of bright red mix
Base color or roskrish: Iron oxide, dark hematite, burnt umber
For a darker tone, add a bit of idanthren blue or blue-black shungite
Dark lines: Black
First highlight: White + dark hematite; or same as flesh
First float: Light hematite + burnt umber
Mix extra, let pigment sink to the bottom, use only the top layer.
Second highlight: White + light hematite; or same as flesh
Second float: Light hematite or burnt siena
Third highlight: Same as flesh
Third float: Burnt siena
Re-drawing of lines: Dark hematite, burnt umber, or black
Ozhivki: White tinted to your taste
Optional: Illuminate shadows with lines of bright red mix
RED GARMENT
Base color or roskrish: Iron oxide, light hematite, earth orange or
bright red mix
For a darker tone, add burnt umber and/or idanthren blue
Dark lines: Black or burnt umber
First highlight: White + red ochre; or same as flesh plus white
First float: Red ochre
Second highlight: White + red ochre & gold ochre; or same as flesh
Second float: Earth orange
Third highlight: Same as flesh
Third float: Vermillion or bright red
Re-drawing of lines: Dark red lines mix plus burnt umber
Ozhivki: White tinted to your taste
Optional: Illuminate shadows with lines of bright red mix
Base color or roskrish: Iron oxide, light hematite, earth orange or
bright red mix
For a darker tone, add burnt umber and/or idanthren blue
Dark lines: Black or burnt umber
First highlight: White + red ochre; or same as flesh plus white
First float: Red ochre
Second highlight: White + red ochre & gold ochre; or same as flesh
Second float: Earth orange
Third highlight: Same as flesh
Third float: Vermillion or bright red
Re-drawing of lines: Dark red lines mix plus burnt umber
Ozhivki: White tinted to your taste
Optional: Illuminate shadows with lines of bright red mix
DARK BROWN HAIR
For other hair colors, change the floats and 2nd-3rd highlights
Base color or roskrish: Sankir
Dark lines: Black
First highlight: Same as for flesh
First float: Burnt siena, with optional burnt umber
Second highlight: Same as for flesh
Second float: Brown ochre
Third highlight: Same as for flesh
Third float: Earth orange, brown ochre
Re-drawing of lines: Black
Ozhivki: White + dark Indian yellow
For other hair colors, change the floats and 2nd-3rd highlights
Base color or roskrish: Sankir
Dark lines: Black
First highlight: Same as for flesh
First float: Burnt siena, with optional burnt umber
Second highlight: Same as for flesh
Second float: Brown ochre
Third highlight: Same as for flesh
Third float: Earth orange, brown ochre
Re-drawing of lines: Black
Ozhivki: White + dark Indian yellow
BACKGROUND COLORS
All sorts of colors can be used for backgrounds! In many historic icons, the background is gilded.
Start with a muted mixture, and work up through succeeding floats to a brighter or darker color.
Each float should be a slightly different color from the float under it, to achieve a subtle mottled effect.
All sorts of colors can be used for backgrounds! In many historic icons, the background is gilded.
Start with a muted mixture, and work up through succeeding floats to a brighter or darker color.
Each float should be a slightly different color from the float under it, to achieve a subtle mottled effect.
DARK BLUE (NIGHT SKY) BACKGROUND
Base color or roskrish: Terra verte & blue-black shungite
+ a pinch of idanthren blue - careful with idanthren blue!
Succeeding floats: Same + optionally other dark blues
Top floats: Lapis (lazurite)
8-pointed stars: White + dark Indian yellow
Base color or roskrish: Terra verte & blue-black shungite
+ a pinch of idanthren blue - careful with idanthren blue!
Succeeding floats: Same + optionally other dark blues
Top floats: Lapis (lazurite)
8-pointed stars: White + dark Indian yellow
RED BACKGROUND
Base color or roskrish: Pale ochre, orange ochre, cream
Succeeding floats: Earth orange
Top floats: Vermillion
NEAR-BLACK for interior of caves
Base color and all floats: Burnt umber mixed with other
darks such as blue-black shungite or dark hematite,
Vary the mix so that each layer is slightly different from
the layer beneath.
Base color or roskrish: Pale ochre, orange ochre, cream
Succeeding floats: Earth orange
Top floats: Vermillion
NEAR-BLACK for interior of caves
Base color and all floats: Burnt umber mixed with other
darks such as blue-black shungite or dark hematite,
Vary the mix so that each layer is slightly different from
the layer beneath.
STEEL BLUE; use with a limited palette
Caution; this color can be quite "heavy"
and may clash with greens and blue-greens
Base color or roskrish: Blue-black shungite + a little white
Dark lines: Black
First highlight: Blue-black shungite + a little more white
First float: None
Second highlight: Same as first highlight + more white
Second Float: None
Third Highlight: Same as second highlight + more white
Third float: Lapis (azurite, in 3 light floats)
Re-drawing of lines: Black
Ozhivki: White + lapis (azurite)
Caution; this color can be quite "heavy"
and may clash with greens and blue-greens
Base color or roskrish: Blue-black shungite + a little white
Dark lines: Black
First highlight: Blue-black shungite + a little more white
First float: None
Second highlight: Same as first highlight + more white
Second Float: None
Third Highlight: Same as second highlight + more white
Third float: Lapis (azurite, in 3 light floats)
Re-drawing of lines: Black
Ozhivki: White + lapis (azurite)
Facial hair is lighter than other hair. It should be floated with the
rest of the face for the third float, and optionally also for the second
float..
For older men, both regular and facial hair may be floated with the
face for second and third floats. Older men will have more ozhivki
in the hair and beard, and may have ozhivki in their bushy
eyebrows.
As an adult, Jesus is shown with very dark hair. Third highlight is
optional, and his hair has no ozhivki. In some icons, like the one
shown here, his beard is represented by tiny strokes of burnt umber.
rest of the face for the third float, and optionally also for the second
float..
For older men, both regular and facial hair may be floated with the
face for second and third floats. Older men will have more ozhivki
in the hair and beard, and may have ozhivki in their bushy
eyebrows.
As an adult, Jesus is shown with very dark hair. Third highlight is
optional, and his hair has no ozhivki. In some icons, like the one
shown here, his beard is represented by tiny strokes of burnt umber.
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